Assembly and Installation of the Laser

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First Impression - very cool.

My ArmaLaser arrived on schedule and the packaging was more than adequate. I was excited to open the package and see a very nice hard plastic case with ArmaLaser Tactical stamped on the box. When you open it up the parts are neatly tucked into the individual foam cutouts - which seem to be die-cut for the Glock version. And the Varta batteries are individually wrapped and ready to go.  There was nothing missing from my box so it was time to install this baby.

What's in the box?

  • Polymer box with die-cut foam padding

  • Owners manual

  • 4 Varta V357 button cell batteries

  • 2 identical 1/16’’ hex keys

  • 3 Black Oxide tempered steel pins with hex screws

  • Special Frame Pin brace

  • Laser adjustment set screw

  • 2 FDA Class 3R Laser Warning Stickers

Putting it all together

The laser actually comes pre-assembled. Then you unscrew it - to install it.  The assembly process of the laser is very simple and straightforward. The documentation is good, but you will notice that it seems to have been written for the Glock version. The main difference seems to be the Frame Pin bracket. When you come to that part in the docs, the pictures do not match the KelTec laser model.  ArmaLaser should have a specific version of the docs that goes into more detail about the Frame Pin and Bracket for the KelTec model.  This brings me to the first step in the assembly process...
 

Frame Pin removal

This was the hardest part of the assembly process. Or at least it was for me. Maybe this will make me sound inexperienced, but, I've taken down my P32 countless times for cleaning - but I've never tried to remove the Frame Pin. The documentation states:

"Drive the original plastic frame pin out. You can either use a small hammer and punch/nail or use the new steel pin that you will replace it with."

Sounds simple enough. I was a little leery of removing my Frame Pin, so I referred to my P32 manual to see what's connected to the pin - making sure that I wasn't going to loose any springs or parts from the trigger mechanism.  That looked ok, but just to be safe, I called KelTec and they assured me that it was ok to replace the frame pin.  They recommended using the same method described in the ArmaLaser documentation, but if that didn't work... KelTec's recommendation was to use a very small bit to drill through the frame pin - thus collapsing the walls and making it easier to come out. Of course this will ruin your old polymer pin...

Opting for the least force necessary - I tried a precision screwdriver to push on the pin - but to no avail. I'm not sure exactly how ArmaLaser or KelTec expects you to use a hammer and punch to remove the pin... seems like there are a few problems with that. For instance; do they expect you to put the pistol in a vise while your tapping out the frame pin? It just seems to be allot more complicated than the brief documentation alludes to. It mentions some hints about installing the new pin - but I never got that far.

Needless to say, I didn't want to drill out my only frame pin - until I had a replacement.  I'm sure that the new one fits - although it does look too big - but in either case I would recommend having a spare before ruining your only one.  Sadly that left me with the cold hard fact that I was never able to successfully install the Brace that connects to the Frame Pin.

Since ArmaLaser specifically states not to fire the pistol without the Brace attached, I was not able to complete this review with some test firing. Once I get my extra frame pin from KelTec I hope to remedy that with my next purchase and post my range results to this review!

UPDATE! - When I got my GenII laser I finally did drill out the pin & test fire. Click here and check out the "At home on the range" paragraph on this page...


Snap into place and install batteries...

From here the docs are very clear and easy to understand, you snap the non-laser side into place and put the batteries in as stated.  I found it helpful to slide in the assembly bolts to make lining up the other side easier.

The three main assembly bolts really need to have a shallow flathead groove for precision screwdrivers to fit into. You just can't hold them in place very well during assembly and dis-assembly.  The documentation makes mention of this issue on Page 5 of the booklet:

"You may have to keep a finger on the barrel nut end while screwing in the screw on the opposite end to stop the barrel nut from turning."

Adding the flathead slot would avoid this completely.  Once you clamshell the other side on and snug up the screws your done!  The fit is very good - and really feels solid once its in place. On to the brace assembly.

 


 

Frame Pin Brace installation

If you successfully removed the Frame Pin then you need to decide where the laser Brace goes. The Brace piece has a large round end that makes contact with your trigger finger if you install it on the wrong side. In my case - I'm right handed - so I installed the Brace on the Left side of the pistol.

Brace RubbingWhen my finger slides across the trigger and with the trigger pull itself I don't feel the Brace. However, if I take the pistol in my left hand the large round end of the Brace rubs against my finger and it's more pronounced when you pull the trigger. The contact is very slight - but was noticeably annoying, and I'm sure would be more so when firing. Keep in mind that this laser was designed for the second gen model not the first like my pistol, so this could just be a generation conflict issue.

ArmaLaser might want to look into this. Maybe square off the end of the large part to be even with the frame of the pistol? Also, they might possibly make the brace and new frame pin as one piece?  This is not a big issue, long as you just put the brace on the opposite side of your strong hand.

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